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How To | Sewing | Choosing a Sewing Needle

Choosing a Sewing Needle

The right needle will make your sewing go more smoothly and may enhance the look of your finished project.

Needle Types
Variances in the needle’s shank, eye, and point are the distinguishing characteristics of the following needle types. Choose the one that best suits your fabric and thread.

close up of fabric and stitching

Universal. There’s a reason for the name of this needle: Use it with an all-purpose sewing thread for most synthetic or natural woven fabrics. This needle features a slightly rounded point that is sharp enough for wovens yet rounded enough not to snag knits. It’s available in the widest range of sizes, from 60/8 through 120/19.

close up image of the fabric and stitching

Sharp. Use this needle type for microfiber fabrics, silks, chintzes, lightweight synthetic suedes, and other smooth, thinly woven fabrics. It’s also ideal for topstitching, edge stitching, pin tucks, and heirloom stitching. This needle features a narrower shaft and a sharper point than the universal needle. It’s available in sizes 60/8 through 120/19.

close up image of the fabric and stitching

Ballpoint. Use this needle type for knits made of synthetic or natural fibers. The needle tip is more rounded than the universal needle and goes between the fabric fibers instead of piercing through and breaking them. It helps ensure better stitch quality on coarse knits and prevents snags or runs when stitching fabrics such as spandex or interlocks. It’s available in sizes 70/10 through 100/16.

close up image of the fabric and stitching

Leather. Use this needle type for real or faux leather and suede, heavy vinyl, and plastic. This needle has a wedge-shape point that pierces unyielding fabrics without tearing them. It’s important to stitch accurately because the needle makes a large, clean hole in the fabric that cannot be removed. Tie or use seam sealant to secure the thread ends instead of backstitching. It’s available in sizes 80/12 through 110/18.

close up image of the fabric and stitching

Denim. Use this needle for tightly woven, tough fabrics such as denim, canvas, heavy linen, and duck cloth and for heavy faux leather, vinyl, or waxed cloth. This needle features a very sharp point and strong shaft that penetrates these fabrics or multiple layers of other fabrics without breaking. It’s available up to size 120/19.

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